“The Menu,” a new Netflix film starring Ralph Fiennes, is a brutal satire of class division. It is also a study of the narcissism that characterizes the gastro tourism business and its celebrity chefs. For example, Noma, the Copenhagen restaurant that has repeatedly topped lists of the world’s best restaurant is currently serving grilled reindeer heart on a bed of fresh pine, and saffron ice cream in a beeswax bowl. A new class of gastro tourists schedules first-class flights and entire vacations around the privilege of paying a minimum of $500 per person for its multicourse tasting menu of things that most of us would not even characterize as “food.”
